In 2001, I travelled to Iran to film a documentary about world football. What I encountered was far more layered than I expected, a country of immense history, warmth, and complexity. Yes, Iran was under the rule of a strict regime at the time, and yes, we were arrested and held in a police station while our credentials were checked. But what I remember most is the kindness of the people, their hospitality, and the depth of culture that surrounded us.

We travelled from Tehran to the Caspian Sea, then boarded an Iran Air flight to the stunning city of Isfahan. The route was captained by a well-known Iranian pilot who lightened the cabin with jokes from takeoff to landing, which was a surreal, unexpected touch of warmth in the skies.

Visiting sites like Persepolis felt like stepping into the pages of my school history books.

During our journey, we unexpectedly came across a procession for Ashura, the most important religious ceremony in the Shia Islamic calendar, marking the martyrdom of Imam Hussein. What we witnessed was powerful, emotional, and deeply symbolic. Much of this video captures that moment: thousands of people in mourning, chanting, beating their chests in rhythmic unison, flagellating their backs, the air charged with grief, faith, and communal memory.

This film is an unfiltered glimpse into a brief but unforgettable time in Iran.